Kitchen Bitch

Cooking in the Kitchen with Sass & Class

Tuesdays with Dorie: Green-as-Spring Veal Stew April 17, 2012

Wow, my friends. I’ve had quite possibly the craziest month of my life, which is in itself a incredible thing to say since I’ve had some very crazy times, but in terms of work I’ve never quite worked like this before. It looks like the six-day work week is here to stay (at least in my life), and I’m really trying to get accustomed to working longer days and longer weeks in order to get Delish Dish Gourmet Chef Services off the ground.

And this little business of mine is picking up way faster than I ever imagined: I’m booked for almost every weekend in May already! I’m doing a bridal shower, a Cinco de Mayo/Derby Day burrito party, a 50-person rehearsal dinner of sorts and, of course, Final Fridays at Japp’s Since 1879 (who’s website will be up and running shortly I’m told)!

I’m so grateful and amazed at how many people have asked me to cook for them since I launched the business. If things keep on the up and up, I’ll be a full-time chef in no time! (YES!!) And let me tell you, I’m really looking forward to quitting my day job—or at least one of them! Working four jobs has been a juggling act, but that’s what Libras do best I’m told :)

But really, we all know you’re here for the food, and this dish is a doozy! I’ve had Dorie’s recipe for Green-as-Spring Veal Stew bookmarked for quite some time now, and when I came across Mark Bitman’s even more simple version, I knew I had to combine the two recipes to make my own version. With all the changes I’ve made this recipe is most definitely mine, but I have to thanks Dorie and Mark Bitman for their guiding hand with this one.

This dish really does scream “SPRING!!!” The vibrant green sauce is incredibly fresh, and every bite packs a wallop of herby awesomeness  (yes, that is a technical term) with a touch of sweetness from the peas.

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Cooking with Julia: Beef Bourguignon January 27, 2012

I remember when I first purchased Julia Child’s Mastering the Art of French Cooking: I nestled into my parents’ welcoming La-Z-Boy and proceeded to read the entire tome almost cover to cover, lovingly marking recipes I wanted to try with my trusty Post-It notes. One of those recipes was, of course, the famous beef dish, beef bourguignon: tender chunks of beef simmered slowly in red wine and beef stock and garnished with buttery pearl onions and earthy mushrooms. Julia calls it “certainly one of the most delicious beef dishes ever concocted by man.”

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Tuesdays with Dorie: Curried Chicken, Peppers, and Peas en Papillote February 22, 2011

My grandpa and grandma gave two of my favorite Christmas gifts this year (thanks Grams & Gramps!): a collapsible tripod for taking pictures for this lovely blog and a copy of Dorie Greenspan’s newest cookbook, Around My French Table.

Within, oh, about 2 minutes of perusing it, Around My French Table became one of my all-time favorite cookbooks—and I hadn’t even cooked a recipe from it. The recipes are easy and well explained, beautifully photographed and obviously delicious. And each has a poignant introduction written by Dorie herself. This is French food at it’s most accessible, and more Americans need to take advantage.

Dorie Greenspan is the award-winning author and co-author of nine cookbooks, including Baking with Julia (i.e., Julia Child) and Baking, From My Home to Yours. She travels between New York, Paris and Connecticut, cooking and writing up a storm for Parade and Bon Appetit. She’s won five James Beard and IACP awards, including Cookbook of the Year. Dorie has some serious credentials, and I highly suggest you pick up her latest tome and get cooking!

As a culinary student, I spend my nights learning French method and techniques, but Dorie’s book highlights the kind of French food I want to make, food that’s comforting but not too complex, classic but not stuffy. Her recipe for Curried Chicken with Peppers and Peas En Papillote satisfies on many levels: It’s healthy and flavorful, filling but light and fresh at the same time, and the sweet curry powder gives it a lovely sweet/savory component.

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Eggs en Cocotte with Black Truffles January 10, 2011

Eggs En Cocotte with Black Truffles, unbaked

When Doug announced to me that Treasure Island, a local high-end grocery store, was selling a limited number of black truffles —the diamonds of the culinary world—I couldn’t get the idea of buying one out of my head.

Truffles are tuber-like fungi (think mushroom) that grow underground on the roots of particular oak trees in Italy, France, Spain, and in some other areas of Europe. Because truffles can’t be seen, specially trained truffle dogs and pigs hunt them out for farmers during the truffle’s very short growing season, which lasts from early December through March, although the truffles are at their peak in January.  While the truffle may look like an ugly duckling, it’s prized for its wonderfully earthy flavor and heady aroma. Its aroma is so strong that it can penetrate eggshells to perfume the egg itself.

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French Decadence: Scallops Gratinéed with Wine, Garlic and Herbs October 25, 2010

Scallops gratinéed with wine, garlic and herbs, served with quinoa croquettes and sautéed spinach.

There’s something about classically prepared French food that instantly transports me to another time and place. With each bite I can hear the sexy French accents growing louder, and I can picture the tuxedo-ed sommelier pouring me a glass of vintage blanc de blanc, smiling and saying, “S’il vous plaît, mademoiselle,” as I daintily bite into my buttery escargot. (Sigh)

The French really know something about decadence and luxury, and that’s because they imbibe in the unending pleasures of food and drink each and every day—but always in moderation. How else would those French women stay so skinny while eating butter and cream?

So when I brought home some beautiful fresh sea scallops and Doug asked me to do a French preparation (even though I’d planned an Asian menu—my plans always go awry), I quickly jumped on board and consulted Mrs. Julia Child’s Mastering the Art of French Cooking, a book I highly recommend for anyone wanting to learn French culinary technique. (more…)

 

Weeknight Luxury: Salmon with Mustard Cream Sauce September 24, 2010

Pan-Fried Salmon with Mustard Cream Sauce and Quinoa with Cucumber and Tomato

With all the nutritionists and dieticians going on and on about how important it is to eat seafood at least two or three times a week, I’ve been trying my best to eat my weekly fish ration. Somehow, I don’t think all the beautiful smoked salmon, shrimp and escargot dishes made for my Stocks, Sauces and Soups class by the Intro to Catering class really count, so I’ve been trying to prepare more seafood at home. I figure it’s better to eat my seafood for dinner than as a Monday night snack.

Granted, with the weather changing, the healthiest seafood preparations (ceviche, sushi, smoked fish) don’t seem like the best options. On a chilly fall night I’d rather be comforted by luxurious cream and butter sauces than a cold fish dish. Still, it’s imperative to get your daily nutrients, so in today’s featured meal I tried to combine health with luxury.

Salmon is known to be a great source of omega-3 fatty acids and vitamin D. When it’s combined with veggie-studded quinoa, a grain similar to rice that is itself a complete protein, it makes for an overall healthy dish. This super-easy mustard cream sauce just takes your weeknight seafood dinner from boring to exceptional—and a little cream sauce never hurt anyone.

This meal can come together in 30 minutes. Simply start the quinoa, and then make the cream sauce and sauté the salmon while the quinoa is simmering. Quinoa is a quick-cooking grain, so it will be ready in about 15 minutes. Serve this dish with crusty bread for mopping up the extra cream sauce.

Salmon with Mustard Cream Sauce
If you’re really counting calories, you can use milk or half and half instead of cream in this recipe. The cream sauce begins with a roux—the French term for a cooked mixture of equal parts flour and butter; it’s the base for many French sauces. Click here for a print copy of this recipe.

4 salmon filets
Kosher salt and pepper to taste
2 Tbs. unsalted butter
2 Tbs. flour
1 c. heavy cream, warmed through, plus more for thinning
1½ Tbs. stone-ground or Djion mustard
1 Tbs. dried dill or 2 Tbs. fresh
2 Tbs olive oil
Fresh chopped parsley, for garnish

Prepare salmon. Pat salmon filets dry with a paper towel. Season well on both sides with salt and pepper. Set aside.

Melted butter and flour combine to make a roux, which thickens the sauce.

Make sauce. Melt butter in a medium saucepan over low heat. Whisk in flour until combined. Cook for 2-3 minutes to cook out flour flavor. Slowly add the cream to the flour mixture, whisking continuously to remove lumps. Whisk in the mustard and dried dill. Thin with more cream or milk to desired consistency. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Sauce before mustard and dill are added

Cook salmon. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat.  Pan fry salmon until browned and cooked through, about 2-3 minutes per side. Serve with mustard sauce; garnish with parsley.

Salmon with Mustard Cream Sauce

Quinoa with Cucumber and Tomato
A complete protein, quinoa is very healthful grain-like crop. It’s a good source of fiber and phosphorus and is high in magnesium and iron. Use it in place of couscous or white rice. Serves 4 as a side dish. Click here for a print copy of this recipe.

1 Tbs. olive oil
½ cucumber, seeded and diced
1 onion, chopped
½ lb. (1/2 pint) tomatoes, chopped
2 cloves of garlic, minced
1 c. quinoa
2 c. chicken stock, or 1 chicken bouillon cube dissolved in 2 c. boiling water
¼ c. fresh chopped parsley

Directions: Rinse quinoa under cold water and water runs clear. Set aside. Heat oil in a small saucepan.

Uncooked Quinoa

Add all veggies and sauté until the vegetables begin to soften, about 4 minutes.

Sauteed Veggies for Quinoa

Add quinoa, sauté 1 minute more.

Saute quinoa with veggies for 1-2 minutes

Add chicken stock and bring to a boil.

Add stock to the quinoa and veggies

Boil 1 minute, then lower heat and simmer for about 15 minutes, or until the quinoa softens and each grain appears to have a tiny white thread. Remove from heat. Let sit 5 minutes. Fluff with fork, season with salt and pepper, and serve.

Cooked Quinoa with Cucumber and Tomato

 

Man Meals: Pepper Steak with Cognac Cream Sauce August 30, 2010

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Steak au Poivre with Tomato-Topped Polenta Tartlets and Grilled Asparagus

There are steaks and then there are STEAKS. You know, the ones you order from your favorite fancy steakhouse, the ones paired with amazing spice rubs, fabulously stinky blue cheeses, or to-die-for béarnaise sauces. Today the Kitchen Bitch is bringing you a straight-from-the-steakhouse classic—Steak au Poivre.

Steak au Poivre, or pepper steak, is a traditional French preparation. The steak, usually filet mignon, is coated in freshly cracked black peppercorns and then seared in butter or oil over very high heat so the peppercorns form a crispy crust and the inside of the steak remains beautifully medium-rare. The creation of a cognac cream sauce using the leftover browned bits (called fond) found in the bottom of the skillet really takes this dish over the top.

However, the real wow factor in this dish is when you flambé (set on fire) the cognac and cream before simmering it down into thick sauce. If you have a stainless steel skillet, this dish can be made on the grill or on your stovetop. I like grilling my steak au poivre outside because it does involve flambé, which can be dangerous if not done correctly. REMEMBER: You must remove the pan from the stovetop or grill before adding the cognac. Otherwise, a dangerous fire could harm you or your sous chefs. Never fear, though, flambé is a simple cooking technique used mostly to impress your guests and to cook out some of the alcohol in a dish. When done correctly, it’s a harmless procedure, just be sure to take the necessary precautions.

This flaming steak dinner is sure to impress your friends and family. I served mine with grilled asparagus and tomato-topped polenta tartlets, which I’ll be doing a post on later this week. Bon appétit!

Steak Au Poivre
This recipe is adapted from Alton Brown and serves 4. Cognac is a specific kind of brandy named after the town of Cognac, France. If you can’t find cognac, any kind of brandy will do.

4 (6 to 8 oz.) tenderloin steaks, no more than 1.5-in.thick
Kosher salt
2 Tbs. whole peppercorns
1 Tbs. unsalted butter
1 tsp. olive oil
1/3 c. Cognac, plus 1 teaspoon
1 c. heavy cream

Bring steaks to room temperature. Remove the steaks from the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes and up to 1 hour prior to cooking. Sprinkle all sides with salt.

Uncooked Peppercorn-Crusted Steaks

Prepare peppercorns. Coarsely crush the peppercorns with a mortar and pestle, the bottom of a cast iron skillet, or using a mallet and pie pan. Spread the peppercorns evenly onto a plate. Press the fillets, on both sides, into the pepper until it coats the surface. Set aside.

Remove pan from heat

Cook steaks. In a medium skillet over medium heat, melt the butter and olive oil. As soon as the butter and oil begin to turn golden and smoke, gently place the steaks in the pan. For medium-rare, cook for 4 minutes on each side. Once done, remove the steaks to a plate, tent with foil and set aside. Pour off the excess fat but do not wipe or scrape the pan clean.

Flambe the sauce

Make cognac sauce. Off of the heat, add 1/3 cup Cognac to the pan and carefully ignite the alcohol with a long match or firestick. Gently shake pan until the flames die. Return the pan to medium heat and add the cream. Bring the mixture to a boil and whisk until the sauce coats the back of a spoon, approximately 5 to 6 minutes. Add the teaspoon of Cognac and season, to taste, with salt. Add the steaks back to the pan, spoon the sauce over, and serve.

Steak au Poivre or Pepper Steak with Cognac Cream Sauce

 

Julia Child + Cooking Light = Amazing Eggplant Soufflé June 28, 2010

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Two-Cheese Eggplant Souffle

One of my new favorite magazines is Cooking Light, because it offers foodies like me ways to cut calories and fat in all my favorite dishes. There’s even a way to make donuts more healthful! (Keep that oil at 375˚F to keep your donuts from getting greasy.)

I spied a Parmesan and Eggplant Souffle recipe in CL’s June 2010 issue, but it seemed a little off. I’ve spent a lot of time with Julia Child’s Mastering the Art of French Cooking and, if you know anything about French cooking, you know that the French really know how to make soufflés, and pretty much anything else with eggs. Julia Child gives precise direction on how to make soufflé in her book, and the soufflé from Cooking Light just didn’t seem to have that soufflé magic I was looking for.

So, in my quest to count calories but eat the yummiest possible meal, I combined the two recipes. I kept the vegetables and low-fat milk from Cooking Light, and added a few extra eggs and some butter from Julia Child’s recipe.

More than the ingredients it’s my method that most resembles Julia’s. Cooking Light’s recipe calls for simply whipping the egg whites with a whisk, but I think of a soufflé as a dramatic, elegant, over-the-top egg puff. To get that dramatic height, the egg whites have to be whipped into beautiful stiff peaks and gently folded into the béchamel sauce and vegetables as Julia called for.

I think you’ll find this recipe a perfect compromise. You really can eat light and well.

Two Cheese Eggplant Soufflé
Sweating the eggplant removes the bitter juices so they don’t water down the soufflé. If you don’t like eggplant, swap in another vegetable like zucchini or spinach.  For a print copy of this recipe, click here.

1 medium sweet (Vidalia) onion, diced
1 red pepper, diced
1 small to medium eggplant
½ Tbs. oregano
3.5 Tbs. butter
¼ c. flour
2 c. low-fat milk
½ tsp. red pepper flake
7 egg whites
6 egg yolks
¼ c. Swiss cheese
½ c. plus 3 Tbs. Parmigiano Reggiano or high-quality Parmesan

Special equipment: Souffle dish

Prep eggplant. Cut eggplant into thick slices and place on layer of paper towels. Sprinkle kosher salt all over both sides of the eggplant and let sit for at least 30 minutes, preferably an hour, flipping half way through. With a damp towel or rag, wipe away excess salt on eggplant. Cut into ½–in. to 1-in. cubes.

Salt the eggplant on both sides and lay on paper towels to sweat out bitter juices.

Saute veggies. Preheat oven 400˚F. Butter mold and sprinkle with cheese. Heat oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add 1 c. eggplant, diced pepper and onion and sauté until tender, about 10 minutes. Season with oregano, salt and pepper. Set aside. Meanwhile, warm milk in small saucepan on stovetop.

Sauteed eggplant, peppers and onion for souffle.

Make béchamel. Melt butter in skillet. Whisk in flour, stirring 2 minutes to combine. Whisk in hot milk, and season with salt and pepper. Bring mixture to a boil, whisking all the while. Boil for one minute until thickened. Remove from heat, stir in red pepper flake.

Separate eggs. Stir yolks into cooling milk mixture, whisking with each addition. Stir in veggies. NOTE: Sauce can be prepared ahead to addition of egg yolks. Dot the top with butter or place plastic wrap on top to prevent a film from forming.

Fold in egg whites and bake. Whip egg whites and a pinch of salt until stiff with a hand mixer or stand mixer. Stir a quarter of the egg whites into the yolk-milk mixture, followed by all but 1-2 Tbs. of the parmesan. Working in three batches, fold in the rest of the egg whites. Turn mixture into mold. Sprinkle with leftover cheese.  Put soufflé on middle rack in oven and immediately drop the temperature to 375˚F.  Cook for 20 to 25 minutes, without opening oven. When a long skewer comes out clean and the top is puffed and brown, the soufflé is ready. Serve immediately.

NOTE: It is possible to keep the soufflé warm and mostly puffed in a still-warm oven for about 20 to 30 minutes. Simply turn off the heat and leave the soufflé in the oven.

 

A Man Meal Mother’s Day May 6, 2010

The KB's Quiche Lorraine with a Cranberry-Spinach Salad

Mom deserves luxury, especially on Mother’s Day, so why not give it to her? The Kitchen Bitch is here with an impressive but easy brunch menu for the woman we all hold dear to our hearts.

Whip up a Quiche Lorraine for mom, and she’ll completely forget that you trampled her garden last week. A Quiche Lorraine is a French open-faced tart. Traditionally, it’s made with eggs, lots of heavy cream and bacon. To retain its luxurious feel while dropping a few calories, I’ve replaced some of the heavy cream with fat-free half-and-half, and added some nutty and delicious shredded Gruyere to give it a cheesy bite. A frozen piecrust makes putting this together as easy as … well, pie.

Pair the quiche with my Cranberry-Spinach Salad with Honeyed White Balsamic Vinaigrette and a crusty French baguette, and mom might even gloss over the fact that you never sent her a Mother’s Day card. Serve her my Limoncello Mimosas, and she’ll forgive you just about anything. Careful, they’re a bit stronger than traditional mimosas, and they’ll catch up to you when you’re not paying attention—just ask my ma. Happy Mother’s Day!

The KB’s Quiche Lorraine
Frozen piecrusts are available in 2-packs in the fridge or freezer section of the supermarket. Gruyere is a hard, yellow cow’s milk cheese made in the town of Gruyeres, Switzerland. It’s usually nutty and sweet, with a hint of saltiness. It can be found in the specialty cheese section of most markets. This can be served for breakfast, brunch or  dinner. Serves 4 to 6. For a print copy of this recipe, click here.

1 (9 in.) frozen piecrust, thawed according to package directions
½ onion, diced
2/3 c. Gruyere or other Swiss-type cheese, shredded

The KB's Quiche Lorraine

3 slices good-quality, thick-cut bacon
4 eggs
¾ c. fat-free half-and-half
½ tsp. kosher salt
¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
Heavy pinch of nutmeg
Fresh chopped parsley

Special equipment: pie weights, or a bag of dried beans; 1 10-in. tart pan with a removable bottom or a 9-in. springform pan.

Prepare & blind bake the crust. Preheat the oven to 400˚F. On a lightly floured surface, unroll the thawed piecrust and roll out an extra ½ in. on all sides. Move piecrust to pan and press and form dough to mold. Prick the bottom of the dough all over with a fork. Line the dough with parchment or tin foil, letting the excess hang over the edge. Fill center of piecrust with pie weights or dried beans. The weights and the holes in the crust prevent it from puffing up on the bottom. Bake the crust for 8 to 9 min. (This is called blind baking.) Remove pan from oven, remove pie weights or beans and foil and bake for 2-3 minutes more, until the crust is very light golden. Unmold the crust from the pan and place on a parchment-lined baking sheet. If the crust looks like it might break in areas, leave the crust in the pan until after its been filled and baked. Drop the oven to 375˚F.

Prepare the filling. While the crust bakes, heat a skillet over medium-low heat. Add a pat of butter, the chopped onion, and a pinch of salt, and cook until the onions are soft and starting to brown, about 10 minutes. Heat another skillet over medium-high heat. Using scissors, snip the bacon into pieces into the hot skillet. Cook until brown and crispy. Remove from pan onto a paper towel to drain.

In a medium bowl, whisk eggs, nutmeg, salt and pepper together. Add half-and-half and Gruyere, mix well. Set aside.

Fill the quiche. Sprinkle the onion evenly over the baked crust, followed by the bacon. Pour the egg mixture over top. Bake in the upper third of a 375˚F oven for 25-30 minutes, until the quiche is puffy and brown. Let cool for 3-5 minutes, sprinkle with chopped parsley, cut into wedges, and serve.

Cranberry Spinach Salad with Honeyed White Balsamic Vinaigrette
Serves 4. Regular balsamic can be substituted if white balsamic can’t be found. For a print copy of this recipe, click here.

My Cranberry-Spinach Salad

¼ c. chopped pecans, toasted in a dry skillet for 3-5 minutes
4 c. packed spinach leaves, stemmed and washed
½ tsp. salt
Fresh ground black pepper
¼ c. good-quality extra-virgin olive oil (EVOO)
3 Tbs. white balsamic vinegar
1 tsp. lemon juice
1.5 tsp. honey
1/3 c. dried cranberries
¼ c. crumbled Gorgonzola or other blue cheese

Make dressing. In a small bowl, whisk together vinegar, salt, pepper, lemon juice and honey. Slowly pour EVOO into vinegar mixture, whisking vigorously and tasting periodically for desired oil-vinegar ratio. I like my salad dressings on the acidic side, so I stop short of the full ¼ cup of oil.

Arrange salad. Toss spinach with dressing. Top salad with pecans, cranberries and Gorgonzola. Serve immediately.

Limoncello Mimosas
Limoncello is an Italian lemon liquor made mostly in the south of Italy. You can find it in most liquor stores. Serves 6-12. For a print version of this recipe, click here.

Limoncello

1 bottle of chilled Limoncello
1 to 2 bottles of chilled Champagne or sparkling wine, like Prosecco

Fill champagne glass one-third of the way with Limoncello. Fill remaining two-thirds of glass with champagne. Serve immediately.

 

 
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